If the stitching has come undone but the trouser fabric and old crease are still intact, you can usually put the hem back by hand. Use the original fold to keep the length and a blind hemming stitch to keep the thread discreet on the outside.
Check what failed
| What you see | What to do |
|---|---|
| The fold is clear and the fabric edge is sound. | Use the repair below. |
| The fabric has frayed above the old fold or torn around the ankle. | Inspect how much sound cloth remains before sewing. Reattaching a weak edge can make the damage worse. |
| The trousers are already too short, or the legs sit at different heights. | Check the fit before stitching. This repair keeps the old length. |
What you’ll need
- A fine hand-sewing needle and thread close to the trouser colour.
- Pins or sewing clips and small scissors.
- A ruler to compare the fold with the other leg.
Put the original hem back
- Turn the leg inside out. Look at the intact hem on the other leg. Note the depth of its turn-up and how its edge is finished. Remove only the loose threads that stop the damaged hem sitting flat. Leave sound stitching in place.
- Refold along the old crease. Lay the leg flat and match the turn-up to the intact side. Pin or clip the fold, keeping the two sides of the trouser leg separate. If pressing would help, follow the garment’s care label.
- Anchor the thread inside the turn-up. Start just inside the sound stitching near the gap. Take a small stitch in the turned-up cloth and tuck the knot into the fold.
- Work across the gap with small stitches. Pick up a thread or two of the trouser fabric just above the fold, then take the needle back through the turned-up cloth. Repeat along the fold. Keep the stitches relaxed. Pulling the thread tight can make a line of puckers visible from the outside.
- Secure the end inside the fold. Carry the repair just into the sound stitching at the far end. Make a small securing stitch in the turn-up, trim the thread and remove the pins or clips.
Check both sides before wearing
Turn the trousers right side out. Compare the legs at the fold and check that the outside hangs smoothly. Slide a hand through the leg to make sure the front and back have stayed separate. If one area puckers, loosen or redo those stitches before wearing the trousers.
When the stitch shows
If you see dots of thread from the outside, practise on a small fold of spare fabric. Take a shallower bite of the outer cloth and use thread that blends with it. Test a few stitches on the actual hem before finishing the whole gap.
Sources
- New Mexico State University Extension, Making Perfect Garment Hems explains hand hemming stitches and matching the hem to the fabric.
- The Hills Shire Council, clothing and textile repair offers more basic sewing and mending resources.